When we last spoke, I was headed to the US Brewer’s Cup Qualifying event in Nashville. It’s been a whirlwind since then. After placing in the top 15 from the Nashville Qualifier, I had the privilege of competing in the US finals in Costa Mesa, CA February 21-23. It was an incredible experience, and while I didn’t place as well as I had hoped (13th overall), I loved the opportunity to represent my Vienna team, and also to highlight a really special coffee, which is what I really want to talk about.
My coffee was a Gesha varietal from Finca Los Cantares in Panama. It’s called the Dorado Ruisenor, which translated means Golden Nighingale. Back in 1994, Marie Jackie Mercer Vallarino purchased a coffee farm to provide for her family, and for 26 years they have poured their love into Los Cantares. That love and hard work paid off in 2012 when the Golden Nightingale placed first in the Best of Panama. In 2014 it placed second (by decimal points), and it continues to do well (and taste amazing).
There are a few things that make Los Cantares stand out. First, it is located next to Volcan Baru National Park, and is surrounded by lush forest. Second, it is situated next to the Chiriqui Viejo river which, paired with its volcanic proximity, creates a unique microclimate which is perfect for coffee cultivation. Finally, Los Cantares is a bird sanctuary which means it is daily filled with the songs of diverse varieties of birds, including the little nightingale, which in their culture represents the presence of God.
This name, Golden Nightingale, and it’s place in Panamanian lore, really spoke to me and so I crafted my routine in such a way as to compare this coffee with the song of the little bird. The Dorado Ruisenor “sings” over the Los Cantares from the top of the estate. It is a naturally processed coffee. This means that the cherries are selectively harvested when perfectly ripe and then sorted and dried on raised beds in the sun, making its song sweet.
The coffee calls to you first in the aroma, where you are greeted with tropical fruit, warm vanilla, and orange blossom. The flavor of this coffee will sing sweetly when hot with fuji apple, cherry, and chocolate. As it cools, you’ll notice hints of strawberry and lime. The acidity is mainly malic, like an green apple when hot, but becoming more like stone fruit as it cools. The aftertaste is lingering and pleasant and reminiscent of toffee. The body is medium and juicy throughout.
You can enjoy this coffee on our pour over bar for a limited time, brewed up in the Kalita Wave, which I used in my competition routine. The Kalita gave it this particular coffee a rich, even extraction, highlighting it’s sweetness. Stay tuned for more new coffees forthcoming in our Foothills Series!
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Philip Hatter
Director of Coffee and Training
